Wood Fired Pizza

After 4 years of planning and building, we have almost finished our wood fired pizza oven in our back yard. We have finishing work, like plastering and tiling, as well as a chimney cap left to do. We could not resist trying out the oven this weekend. Friday night we did our first pizzas. On Saturday, we tried roast chicken and vegetables, foccacia bread and cinnamon buns. We also roasted off been bones for a beef stock.

Cooking in an oven that is 42 inches in width, and has very variable heat is sure a challenge. We will have to learn what cooks with the fire in.......what cooks with embers.......what cooks with no embers and the door closed......SHEESH!!!!! Why would we bother? Well, when cooking food is a hobby or entertainment, the doing is not such a chore! The clean up....now that's another story.

Here are more dishes and delights.

Foccacia Bread

Roast Chicken with Potatoes & Carrots

Three Day Cook Off

On Monday, the forecast said that the rest of the week would be nice and hot. It has not been a nice summer, with a fair amount of rain, and some days that the temperature did not creep above 15 degrees. I decided that this week, the last week of my vacation, I would pull out all stops and have people over as many times as my energy level would allow.

Wednesday was "girls" day and we had a nice lunch on the patio, followed by a "Mama Mia" matinee. We had Green Pea & Mint Chilled Soup, and a nice salad (picture above) and then some fresh "brother-in-law" raspberries encased in a lovely vanilla scented red wine jelly.

Thursday had colleagues from work, and some appetizers and snacks outside. We tried sitting in the gazebo for a while, but had to move to the patio on the north side when the heat became unbearable. We had a nice Bruschetta with an Herb Salad on top, and Grilled Egg Plant and Feta Rolls. I had saved some of the soup and dessert from the day before and had them in shooter glasses (soup) and raspberries in espresso glasses. Another great day outside...........

Day three, Friday, and I am still cooking. The plan is for a Bocce game, and then a roasted lamb leg with some salads. We'll see how the day goes on.

Summer Treats

Company's coming! When those words are spoken in our house, it means we will be making something special. Cousins from Quebec were in town, and a dinner hosted at a sister-in-law's house. We were bringing dessert. We start off with a trip to the market in the morning. It was 12 degrees with 40 km per hour winds! Hmph! doesn't feel much like summer. Oh yeah! This is Edmonton, and the weather is..........variable.

We were on the lookout for fresh Saskatoon berries and raspberries. Some nice yellow and purple B.C. plums had already been procured the day before at the Italian Market. We would bring 2 desserts. The market never fails to amaze and inspire. We came home laden with bags of vegetables and said fruit and got to work on the treats.



When time is in short supply I fall back on quick desserts that need little fuss. I love the Italian dessert Panna Cotta because it is so easy and pairs so well with summer fruits. It literally means "cooked cream", and goes together in about 5 minutes. I have used everything from cream, to buttermilk to my favourite local Bleswold yogurt. Sweetened with sugar or honey, a touch of vanilla or liqueur and thickened with gelatin, this dessert is will never disappoint. One picture below is with Saskatoons & Raspberries, and another with a rhubarb ginger topping.(Recipe follows)

Dessert number 2 was a simple plum tart that is comprised of pastry, plums and sugar. Summer fruit tarts need a robust pastry, and I put together a dough in the food processor that is called Pasta Frolla in Italian, Pate Sucree in French, and Short Dough in English. It needs to be chilled before it is rolled, and then the fresh fruits and sugar go in. Bake it in a high temperature oven and glaze with some thinned apricot or rasperry jam for a jewel like glaze. (Recipe follows)

A Just Reward

Sometimes my husband and I ask ourselves if all of the effort that we put into some meals is worth it. We can spend a great many hours on a single meal, and for seemingly no special reason or occasion. The other day, while shopping for lamb racks for a special dinner we prepared for a friend, some veal shanks jumped into my shopping basket. "Jumped in!" you say "That does not happen to me. Exercise some restraint!" Great meals begin with the unexpected. If a particular thing you see in the store looks great, smells great or is bursting with other superlatives, it needs to be eaten. We decided to prepare the quintessential veal shank dish Osso Bucco, with the quintessential accompaniment Rissotto Milanese.

We have been perfecting the classic combination for a few years now. Every time we make it, some nuance reveals itself that helps us the next time. When you make dishes again and again, you only improve your technique and results. Everyone has their prize spaghetti sauce or chili that gets better every time. This holds true for all dishes. People get disappointed with the results of a new recipe and then never return to it. Good cooks get good results from repetition.

We always turn to our old friend "The Classic Italian Cook Book" by Marcella Hazan. First published in 1973, these recipes have not gone out of style, as traditional Italian cooking has always relied on fresh ingredients and a sense of reverence in their preparation. A quote from the preface of her book says it beautifully.

Nothing significant exists under Italy's sun that is not touched by art. Its food is twice blessed because it is the product of two arts, the art of cooking and the art of eating. While each nourishes the other, they are in no way identical accomplishments. The art of cooking produces the dishes, but it is the art of eating that transforms them into a meal.
Through the art of eating, an Italian meal becomes a precisely orchestrated event, where the products of the season, the tradition of place, the intuitions of the cook, and knowledgeable joy of the participants are combined into one of the most satisfying experiences of which our senses are capable.

Marcella Hazan

Here are the recipes for the dynamic duo. It is perfect winter food, as rice, canned tomatoes, pancetta and root vegetables abound in the winter.


Osso Bucco
For 6

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
2/3 cup finely chopped carrot (1 large)
2/3 cup finely chopped celery (1 stalk)
1/4 cup butter
1 tsp minced garlic
2 strips lemon peel
1/2 cup vegetable oil
6-8 pieces prepared veal shanks
flour for dredging the veal
1 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cups beef stock
1 398 ml can of whole tomatoes , chopped with their juice
1/4 tsp dried thyme
Fresh basil (optional, but a good addition)
2 bay leaves
3 stems fresh parsley
Salt & Pepper

In a casserole dish large enough for all ingredients:

Saute the chopped vegetables in butter for 8 to 10 minutes add the garlic and lemon peel. remove from heat.

In a large skillet, heat oil. Dredge the veal pieces on each side, in the flour on a plate. Shake off any excess. Brown the veal on each side, making sure you don't crowd the pan too much. Once the pieces are browned on each side, place on top of the vegetables in the casserole dish. Once the veal has been all browned and placed in the skillet, tip off any excess oil in the skillet.
Add the wine to the pan and stir up any brown bits. Pour this over the veal. Bring the stock to the boil in the same skillet and pour over veal. To the casserole, pour over the chopped tomatoes and juice, herbs and a little salt. Check later for salt and add more if required. Bring casserole to the boil , cover tightly and place in a preheated oven for about 2 hours, turning the veal pieces every half hour or so. They should be very tender when pricked with a fork to be done. Remove veal pieces and spoon sauce over top. Sprinkle with Gremolada if desired (recipes follows)

Gremolada

This traditional garnish offers a lemon, parsley and garlic tang to the dish. Some find it a tad too much for the rich dish. (I enjoy it with or without)

1 tsp grated lemon peel
1/4 tsp minced garlic
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
Mix together and sprinkle over top when serving.

Risotto alla Milanese

1 litre chicken stock (approx and unsalted or homemade)
2 tbsp diced pancetta (italian bacon)
2 tbsp finely chopped shallots or yellow onion
5 tbsp butter
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 cups raw Arborio rice
1/3 tsp saffron
salt (taste first!)
Fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese.

Heat the stock to a simmer and keep warm. Saute the pancetta with the oil and butter until cooked through. Add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the rice and stir until it is coated with oil. Saute for a few minutes.

Add about 1/2 cup of the hot stock and simmer slowly until all the liquid is absorbed. Continue slowly adding the stock a ladle full at a time, taking care that all the rice is coated with the stock. ( smooth it out on top after each addition) Adjust your heat so that is gently bubbling, and stir, stir stir. Dissolve the saffron in some warm stock and add about half way through the 30 minutes. The later you add it, the stronger the flavour. The risotto is done when the rice is tender but al dente. It takes approx 30 minutes. When you get closer to that time, put in less stock at a time to ensure you don't swamp it. When you get it right you will know. It is creamy, not dry or not runny. Add the parmesan at the end and salt if necessary.

Marcella gives this advice:

The quantity of the liquid given should be considered an approximate amount . You may end using less or slightly more than indicated. What is important is never to cook risotto with too much liquid at one time, and to bring it to it's final tender but firm to the bite state so that it is creamy but not saturated.

Sounds scary but it is not. Practice this dish and you will never regret the time and effort you put into it.

In Defense of Food

Words of Wisdom:

Eat Food, Not too Much, Mostly Plants

Michael Pollan's New Book In Defense of Food

Advice Gone Bad

Sometimes, being a trained cook (from a previous life) can get you into a little trouble. People ask your advice, and then you can't help giving it. When we are making "simple food" at home that does not take much time or effort, I want to shout if from the rooftops. "It's not hard to do, really. Just a few simple steps.........." I had a conversation at work with someone about pan frying steak. They were quite intrigued by the idea that you could make a good steak in a fry pan. I said that we pan fry steaks often in our house when going out to the barbecue does not seem like such a great idea. (6 months out of the year where I live) I gave advice about using a good pan. Then, about ensuring the heat was even. Then, I suggested "kicking it up a notch" by making a simple pan sauce for said steaks. I gave a brief overview of the concepts of the steaks and the sauce.

A few days later, I was approached with the reproach " steaks were good......pan sauce was awful". I felt bad.

To make amends, after I got home from work on Friday, I prepared a "panfried steak", and recorded the recipe to share.


Pan Fried Bison Tenderloin with a Red Wine Pan Sauce

2 -4 small tenderloin steaks
2-4 oz good red wine
1/2 shallot finely diced
Small clove of garlic, diced finely
Fresh thyme leaves.
1 oz of cold butter (optional)
2 oz Reduced Beef Stock (optional) (Homemade - unsalted)

Preheat a saute pan until hot. Make sure the pan is not too big or too small. A big pan will get too hot and a small pan will cool down to fast and will not sear the steaks. I used a 12 inch pan for 3 steaks. Pour in a small amount of oil. Sear your steaks on both sides until almost done. Adjust your heat so that your pan residue is not turning black. Remove your steaks from the pan, place in a small oven proof pan and finish them in a 375 degree oven. (probably 5 - 10 minutes)

Put a little more oil in your pan. Add shallots and garlic and stir around, dislodging the brown bits (fond) in the bottom of the pan. Saute until translucent. Add the wine, and stir up the bits some more and cook for a few minutes. The wine will reduce. If you use the higher volume of wine, let it cook longer to reduce. If you use the concentrated (reduced beef stock) you can add that now too. Let cook and reduce until almost by half. Add the fresh thyme and some salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Taste. You can add the optional butter at this time for some extra richness.

Remove your steaks from the oven and test that they are done to your taste. Place the steak on your plate and spoon about a tablespoon of sauce on each steak.

We served this with pommes frites and some sauteed zucchini and tomato. It was a nice little Friday night supper with a good Spanish Rioja.